En Venezuela, todo es posible

Fighting like Cats and Dogs

2010-10-19T21:43:00.003-04:30

Throughout my year in Venezuela, I felt like I was up against something a lot of times . At times, it seemed like it was me against the world (yes, I realize that this is an exaggeration, but it was quite easy to get caught up in it). In fact, there were even moments when I felt like a cat in the middle of a room of dogs. The phrase "fighting like cats and dogs" came to mind more than once while watching the news or seeing arguments in the street between political enemies. However, I learned that those differences do not have mean that you can't get along... take Nala and Pochi, for example.

Nala the dog and Pochi the cat

Wouldn't it be nice to set aside our differences, if only for a moment, and make an effort to achieve something greater?

Last week I was moved by the way that so many of my friends from all over the world and from all walks of life were posting updates about the Chilean miners' rescue. I heard on the radio about how this was finally a situation where everyone would win, not like a sporting event or competition where one side has to lose. I hope that my Venezuelan amigos can find their own ways to bridge the divide so that the cats and dogs finally stop fighting and unite to share in the simple joy of breathing in fresh air every day.

Life in Slow Motion

2010-09-08T21:32:00.002-04:30

I returned to Ohio at the end of last week, but plan to keep writing in this blog to reflect on other aspects of my year in Venezuela, considering that even though the experience is over, I haven't stopped learning from it.

Since I've been back, I have had time to reflect on how Venezuela has affected every aspect of my person. One of the most striking differences I have noted in my personality is my level of patience. In Caracas, patience is a necessary quality, given the time one spends carrying out various and sundry (often mundane) tasks throughout the day. For example, it wasn't out of the ordinary to spend the entire morning waiting in line at the bank to make a deposit, nor letting four overflowing trains pass by before being able to squeeze into the subway.

On my way home from a job interview, I was slightly delayed because of rush hour traffic. I was surprised at how little it affected me. A year ago, I would've been extremely stressed in that bumper-to-bumper situation and it would've tired me much more. However, I became used to the traffic jams in Caracas at all hours of the day and night and Cleveland's rush hour pales in comparison. On the other hand, when traffic was flowing smoothly, I felt that I always had plenty of room and time to change lanes and maneuver safely and efficiently through traffic. It almost felt like the rest of the world was moving in slow motion.

Living in Caracas, in spite of its ups and downs, has made me a better person. One of the hardest parts of my reincorporation into American society will be to focus on those positive changes and try to learn from the difficult, more frustrating moments I lived through while there.

Radio Interview- Listen here!

2010-09-02T00:13:00.002-04:30

I wrote awhile back about my radio interview for Propaz here in Caracas. Now, thanks to technological advances, you can listen to it in its entirety here. Happy listening!

Last day of class

2010-08-30T18:45:00.004-04:30

I finally finished my second semester at the Universidad Central de Venezuela in July. The last day that we had our space seminar (see this entry), we had a small recognition ceremony with the head of the ABAE, a few of the presenters who came throughout the semester and other professors from the International Relations graduate program.

The class on our last day

Me with other professors from the UCV. At far right, in the white shirt, is Prof. Becerra. Behind him is the director of the ABAE, who graded my final paper. Next to him is another ABAE employee who gave a presentation on risk management.

After the awards ceremony

Road Trip to BAMARI

2010-08-30T17:00:00.003-04:30

Back in May, I had a once-in-a-lifetime (at least for me) opportunity to visit one of the land control stations for the Venezuelan communications satellite, Venesat I. To give a little bit of background, I was in a seminar last semester about space exploration and space programs in an international setting. That is, how different countries and space programs cooperate, share information (or not) and some of the effects these actions have in international relations. Quite frankly, it was one of my favorite classes at the UCV.

Our teacher, Professor Robert Becerra, is probably one of the most intelligent people I know, especially in this area. He has worked in the Venezuelan version of NASA from the time it was just an idea, back in 2002 when it was decided that Venezuela needed to explore the idea of developing and launching its own satellite. Professor Becerra works in the International Relations department of the Agencia Bolivariana de Asuntos Espaciales (ABAE-Bolivarian Agency for Spacial Affairs). He drew upon all of his resources to bring us specialists in different areas of space and space exploration (technology, physics, risk management, history and the development of the Venezuelan satellite program, etc.) to give presentations during class and answer any questions we might have. Every week my knowledge of everything space-related increased exponentially. I will be posting more photos of the last day of class in another entry.

In an effort to give us more of a "hands-on" learning experience, Prof. Becerra took us to BAMARI (Base Aerospacial Capitán Manuel Ríos), a military base in Estado Guarico where one of the control centers for Venesat I is located.

We were given a very warm welcome by the people who work at the satellite station when we arrived and given a tour of the grounds. The only place we weren't allowed to go, the main control room for the satellite, was shown to us via video. We were even allowed to climb up and see the different antennas close up , which made some of us feel like kids again, as seen in the second picture.

Each of the antennas served a different purpose, whether it be send out the signal to shift the satellite's position, access a different signal (like DirecTV or Global Positioning), etc.

After the tour, we headed to the classroom/conference room to continue with a few other activities. However, nature called to some of us and we made a pit stop before going to class. When I went into the bathroom, I was glad that I understood the Spanish part of the sign that told me not to throw the toilet paper in the toilet, because the English part befuddled me.

According to wordreference.com,

extrude
A	verb
	1	extrude, squeeze out
			form or shape by forcing through an opening; "extrude steel"

I'll leave that for you to try to figure out! It didn't make much sense to me.

In the classroom we listened to a speech by one of the BAMARI/ABAE employees and did other activities, like constructing the satellite below. I somehow managed to finish mine successfully before anyone else (I used scotch tape, they used glue, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out how I got done first!) and got a reward in the form of Venezuelan chocolate- yum!

After the arts and crafts activity, we went to the hallway to participate in a team-building exercise. We were divided into two different teams and had to form a sort of human worm. After we got into position, the two teams raced to the finish while trying not to break the worm. It was truly a group effort, because if one person put in more effort than the person behind him, the worm would break. If a person was slower than the rest, the worm dragged. We were rolling on the floor laughing by the end, and the professor's point about everyone having to do his/her part had been made.

At the end of the day, we were tired yet satisfied with the day's activities. Thanks, Dr. Becerra and ABAE for helping make this day such a success!

"This is why the young people are leaving..."

2010-08-23T17:48:00.002-04:30

A few days ago, El Nacional newspaper published a graphic photo of the conditions of a morgue in Caracas. The result was mixed, from outrage to quiet recognition. I have kept myself out of places like that and tried to avoid violent areas, but even so, I saw a cadaver on the side of the road one Saturday morning. A cadaver! I remember that we had to pass by that spot twice, so I was sure of what I saw. I was surprised by what I saw, but more surprised by the fact that I wasn't thoroughly shaken and haunted by nightmares. I just accepted what I saw as sad, and moved on.

No one, pro- or anti-government can deny that there is a serious problem with violence here. Anytime the topic is brought up in daily conversation, essentially every person has a disturbing story to tell, whether it be about something that happened directly to him/her or to a family member. I'm not going to share any of the stories; suffice it to say that most of the victims were not involved in illegal activities or anything of the like. They simply wanted to live a normal life. I don't think I will ever get to the point where I can understand this kind of violence.

Some people tell me that security and safety are a state of mind. I agree that how safe you feel and the way you live your life depends on your own perspective. But the facts don't lie- crime and homicides are widespread in Venezuela, which is very unfortunate for this beautiful country. I have grown to love a lot of things about this country and can only hope that they will find the way to move forward and make it a safer place.

Read this article for more information.

Hermano

2010-08-21T23:46:00.004-04:30

I just saw the Venezuelan movie "Hermano" and will admit that it was a bit more than I had bargained for... but then again, it isn't the first time that I have felt that way this year. The movie is about two brothers who are fighting to get out of the poorest slums in Venezuela (and the biggest in Latin America)-Petare. Soccer is one brother's plan to get both of them out.

I'm not going to summarize the movie here, it really needs to be seen and experienced to be truly understood. I said before that it was more than I had bargained for because it hit too close to home. Throughout this year I have met different people who also want to "get out," whether it be figuratively or literally, and haven't been able to. Some of the people who study at my university are doing so in order to better themselves and provide for their families with one or two good jobs rather than four or five odd jobs. Other people simply do not see where they fit in in the current societal situation. Many have commented that they feel like they don't have an opportunity to grow and develop themselves personally and professionally here in Venezuela. but don't really have a choice. I can't begin to imagine the impotence they must feel.

It was one of those movies that taught me as much about myself as it did about Venezuelan life in Petare. The times that we have had to pass through Petare for whatever reason, we always did so fearfully, taking every possible precaution to make sure nothing happened to us as we drove through. We were suspicious of anyone who got too close. Forget getting out of the car. But as "Hermano" reminds us, the people living there are not monsters, they have just grown up differently than we have and have not had the same opportunities. However, I don't plan on driving down to Petare to lend a hand anytime soon, because I've realized that I really don't understand what life is like there and it would be pretentious of me to assume that I could make a difference without that understanding. "Hermano" gave me a glimpse into that world and boggled my mind, reminding me how much of the world I don't yet comprehend.

This entry is a bit scatter-brained because that's how the movie made me feel. Certain scenes keep repeating themselves in my head and I have a feeling they will for quite some time. I can't fathom having to go through what they did- one brother was abandoned as a baby and the other puts food on the family table with "dirty money," people they love are senselessly murdered.... I was not the only one who needed a tissue.

However, the message that shone through the whole movie was positive- the people that you care about are your family, and it is the most important thing you've got. That's the message I choose to take to heart.

Feeling Like a Kid Again

2010-08-18T23:27:00.005-04:30

I never thought I would actually enjoy it. In fact, I thought it would disrupt my sleep and make me feel claustrophobic. That couldn't be further from the truth! In fact, I'll admit it- I love my mosquito net.

Right after I returned from a trip to Peru and Ecuador, I found myself about to be homeless, and frantically searched for a place to stay. Fortunately, my Rotary contacts came through for me, and I moved in with my good friends Pedro and Gina, who have a beautiful house and lush gardens and trees around it. I was a little bit nervous about the mosquitoes and other bugs that live in the gardens, as they tend to feast upon my foreign blood (it must be like filet mignon to them) and make me itchy for weeks.

Luckily, they have lived here for years and are well-prepared. I was instructed in the proper use of the mosquito net for my bed (make sure it covers the whole bed and doesn't rest on me, because they will bite me through the netting, check and make sure there aren't any bugs already in it before I go to sleep, and don't open it a lot if I get up to go to the bathroom) and tried it out. I slept like a baby the first night and felt this sort of power surge- the mosquitoes couldn't get to me! I fought the mosquitoes, and won, at least at night. This may not seem like a lot to other people, but it was a huge relief to be able to laze around under my mosquitero without a care in the world. Plus, it kind of felt like when I was a kid and constructed forts in the living room with chairs, sheets and cardboard boxes, something I haven't felt in a long, long time.

My "big kid" fort

The Calm During the Storm

2010-08-17T08:00:00.000-04:30

Caracas has been more tranquil since I last wrote, which is a relief. When the rains started back in April, life calmed down again. Throughout the year, I've noticed that the city goes through a fairly rapid ebb and flow depending on different factors like the weather, politics, etc. It surprised me that I was able to perceive these changes so easily because normally one does not notice them when living in the midst of them. For example, a friend is much less likely to realize you just got a haircut if he or she sees you every day than if she hasn't seen you in six months.

Now that I've piqued your interest, what exactly am I talking about?

One change was obviously the rain because it was drastic- after a drought so severe it caused long-lasting wildfires and drastic energy cutting measures, the rains started to fall every day. Whereas before I wouldn't even need to worry about taking a jacket, now I had to make sure to pack an umbrella in my bag every time I stepped out of the house. I feel like my year here is coming full-circle because I arrived in the rainy season.

Caracas is returning to its lush, green self, which puts me in a more positive mood. I remember that through January, February and March I would look out the window at my university and wonder if the brown and yellow trees would ever recuperate. It's amazing what a little water can do for everyone and everything.

Tying up Loose Ends

2010-08-16T22:53:00.003-04:30

It has been almost a year since I touched down onto Venezuelan soil for the first time. This place has made me grow, learn, experience and create in a way that I never had before. I haven't written very much in the last few months because just living in Caracas was enough to keep me occupied, both mentally and physically, especially in the last weeks of my second semester at the UCV.

Over the next few weeks I hope to do a little "catching up" and reflect on some of the different parts of my experience here that I haven't written about. I had to move for the second time and am now living with some amazing Rotarians who have been there for me the whole year, and even more so recently when I had nowhere to go. So for the few weeks I have left here in this unique country, I will be writing more in an attempt to tie up some loose ends and see if I can understand a bit more of this "mundo al revés," as some call it.

For now, I leave you with this picture, taking on a scuba-diving outing off of Margarita Island. If you can't tell, I'm the one in the middle. :)

Sapitos

2010-07-06T10:40:00.005-04:30

Whenever it rains (which is frequently now that we are officially in rainy season), the air is filled with the hypnotic sound of what seemed to be crickets or something of the sort. At night their sound is like a metronome, lulling me to sleep. I was told by my friend Gina that they were "sapitos" ("little toads"), but couldn't believe that a little toad would make that kind of noise. Plus, even the locals insisted that they were "grillos" (crickets). One night as I was leaving Gina's house, I asked her again about the origin of the noise and she said she would prove it to me. We started to look through the plants by the door and found this little guy, who stayed in one spot long enough for me to collect the photographic proof.

Chávez offers a cure to children's insomnia

2010-06-12T01:24:00.002-04:30

Want to know how to cure your child's insomnia? Have them watch his speeches, says the Venezuelan president. Read the article here.

The Return of the Macaws!

2010-05-15T21:44:00.003-04:30

A few days after the first macaw sighting, I walked outside to find not two, but four macaws eating out of my neighbor's hand! The landlady told me that she's seen up to 8 out there at a time. And for those wondering, no, these are not domesticated macaws. :)

In the words of Chico Buarque, Brasilian Minister of Education...

2010-05-10T10:16:00.006-04:30

Living in Venezuela has made me much more conscious of the changes that are occurring in the climate, and not just the aspects that have to do with global warming, but the natural processes that occur throughout the year, too. Because there are only two seasons here, wet and dry, it is fairly easy to tell in what season we are currently in. For example, when I arrived in September of last year, everything was lush and green because of the rain. By the beginning of 2010, the trees were turning yellow and brown from the lack of rain. Luckily, it started raining last month (we're now officially in rainy season again) and the country is once again full of flowers and greenery. The article I posted recently about the burning of lands by the Pemón tribes in the south of Venezuela has made me think more about the effects that we as humans are having on the environment. It brought up the question of if we should interfere in the affairs of indigenous tribes (or other groups) if their actions, in turn, affect others not involved in the situation.

Brazil has had its own problems in this area. The Amazon rain forests have been destroyed at an alarming rate, causing international conflict. The article refers to the forests as "the lung of humanity." Who should be held responsible for this destruction of these irreplaceable ecosystems, an issue that affects the whole world? Is it the responsibility of the country where the forest is located or should the forests be "internationalized" (that is, the international community as a whole would share the responsibility)? The following is an article with the transcription of a response to this question given by Chico Buarque, Brazilian Minister of Education, four years ago at a US university. I agree with the comment that it is still a topic of vital importance even though four years have passed.

Internationalize the Amazonia?

Brazil’s Amazon basin, some 360 million hectares cleaved by the world’s largest river, the Amazon, whose 80,000 kilometers in length is equal to the distance between New York and Berlin, holds the planet’s greatest biodiversity reserve. This unique, complex, exceptional ecosystem is a colossal Patrimony of Humanity. Should it be internationalized?

Cristováo Buarque

During a debate in a US university over four years ago, a young US ecologist asked Cristóvão Buarque, then the Workers Party governor of the Federal District of Brasilia and currently Brazil’s minister of education, about his ideas on internationalizing the Amazonia, so often described as the “lung of humanity.” It was then and still is a theme strongly sustained in Washington’s power circles.

The young man said he hoped Buarque would answer with the vision of a humanist rather than of a Brazilian. What he got was a response that was both Brazilian and humanist, one as valid and timely today as it was four years ago. As increasingly happens with such important and surprising messages, it has been repeated on various Internet pages, accompanied by the implicit digital sign, “pass it on,” it’s for everyone. Hundreds of groups, organizations, institutions and publications that present alternative ideas to today’s “single thinking,” most of them outside the United States, have already reproduced his response. Better late than never, envío is also helping to disseminate his brilliant and clinching message, which we strongly applaud.

“From a humanist perspective...”
“As a Brazilian I would always argue against internationalizing the Amazon Rain Forest. Even though our government has not given this patrimony the care that it deserves, it is still ours. As a humanist who fears the risks posed by the environmental degradation the Amazon is suffering, I could imagine its internationalization, just as I could imagine the internationalization of everything else of importance to humanity.

If, from a humanist perspective, the Amazon must be internationalized, we should also internationalize the world’s petroleum reserves. Oil is as important for the well being of humanity as the Amazon is for our future. The owners of the reserves, however, feel that they have the right to increase or decrease the amount of oil production, as well as increase or lower the price per barrel. The wealthy of the world feel they have the right to burn up this immense patrimony of humanity.

In much the same way, the wealthy countries’ financial capital should be internationalized. Since the Amazon Rain Forest is a reserve for all human beings, no owner or country must be allowed to burn it up. The burning of the Amazon is as serious a problem as the unemployment caused by the arbitrary decisions made by global speculators. We cannot permit the use of financial reserves to burn entire countries in the frenzy of speculation.

“Let’s internationalize all the world’s children as patrimony of humanity”
Before we internationalize the Amazon, I would like to see the internationalization of all the world’s great museums. The Louvre should not belong merely to France. The world’s museums are guardians of the most beautiful pieces of art produced by the human genius. We cannot let this cultural patrimony, like the natural patrimony of the Amazon, be manipulated and destroyed by the whims of an owner or a country. A short time ago, a Japanese millionaire decided to be buried with a painting by a great artist. That painting should have been internationalized before this could happen.

The United Nations is holding the Millennium Summit parallel to this meeting, but some Presidents had difficulties attending due to U.S. border-crossing constraints. Because of this, I think that New York, as the headquarters of the United Nations, should be internationalized. At least Manhattan should belong to all humanity, as should Paris, Venice, Rome, London, Río de Janeiro, Brasilia, Recife... Each city, with its unique beauty and its history, should belong to the entire world, to all of humanity.

If the United States wants to internationalize the Amazon Rain Forest to minimize the risk of leaving it in the hands of Brazilians, we should internationalize its nuclear arsenals, if only because the country has already demonstrated it is capable of using these arms, causing destruction thousands of times greater than the deplorable burnings done in the forests of Brazil.

In their debates, the US presidential candidates have defended the idea of internationalizing the world’s forest reserves in exchange for debt relief. We should begin by using this debt to guarantee that each child in the world has the opportunity to go to school. We should internationalize the children, treating them, all of them, no matter their country of birth, as patrimony that deserves to be cared for by the entire world. Even more than the Amazon deserves to be cared for. When the world’s leaders begin to treat the poor children of the world as a patrimony of humanity, they will not let them work when they should be studying, die when they should be living.

As a humanist, I agree to defend the internationalization of the world. But, as long as the world treats me as a Brazilian, I will fight for the Amazonia to remain ours. Ours alone.”

Retrieved from this website on May 10, 2010.

Rotary Las Mercedes- March 2010

2010-05-06T19:54:00.003-04:30

Here you can read (in Spanish) and see pictures of the day I gave a speech to Rotary Las Mercedes back in March.

Visiting Macaws

2010-05-01T14:07:00.004-04:30

When I walked out of my apartment building the other day, I heard what sounded like an army of macaws (I know their "rawk" very well by now because they enjoy the trees close to my apartment and I hear them all day) having a party. I could see some of the birds in the trees next to my building and across the street, but it seemed like they should've been closer for how loud they were. I turned around in the parking lot and saw them- there were two of them on my neighbor's porch! Apparently she leaves food out for them, and this day I even saw her come out and give them food from her hand. There was a little mini-doberman/chihuahua dog on a nearby porch that looked quite nervous. I paused to contemplate them and took this picture.

ProPaz's blogspot about the radio interview!

2010-05-01T13:52:00.002-04:30

In the ProPaz blog, an entry was written about the show last Monday that I participated in. You can read the entry (in Spanish) here.

Radio Mi Condominio

2010-04-29T10:00:00.000-04:30

Last Monday, April 26, I was invited to be interviewd on the ProPaz radio program on Radio Mi Condominio. ProPaz is an organization dedicated to cultivating peace not only here in Venezuela, but all over the world.

"La paz mundial no es una utopía. Consideramos que cada quien debe ser proactivo, desde sus pequeños espacios, desde sus realidades cotidianas, para conquistar el objetivo propuesto. Desde ProPaz hemos decidido contribuir, a través de la promoción de la responsabilidad social y de los derechos humanos." Presentación de ProPaz de su página web.

"World peace isn't a utopia. We feel that every person should be proactive in his or her small spaces and daily lives, to conquer the proposed objectives. We at ProPaz have decided to contribute by promoting social responsibility and human rights." ProPaz's website

The radio program started a few months back and is an hour long session on Monday afternoons, accessible via the ProPaz and Radio Mi Condominio websites. Last Monday, there were three of us there to be interviewed. Pedro Ramírez, who is also the president of Rotary Club Las Mercedes, was my interviewer. One of the other interviewees was Nelson Sanz, one of this year's winners of the Rotary Foundation World Peace Fellowship, which will enable him to study at the International Christian University in Tokyo, Japan. Joining him was Erica, a young woman who is in charge of the Model United Nations program at my university, the Universidad Central de Venezuela.

Nelson, Erica and Pedro during the interview

When asked how to best cultivate peace here in Venezuela, Nelson responded that education is vital in the process. Later, in my interview, I added that it's also important to be exposed to different cultures and peoples in order to begin to break down the prejudices that are so easily formed, but so hard to destroy. Pedro asked me about my impressions of Caracas, what motivated me to come to Venezuela and other aspects of my scholar year so far. He had told me before the interview that it would be just like a conversation between the two of us...with a whole lot of people listening in! He was right, and it was much less nerve-racking than I thought it would be.

The program went by so quickly I couldn't believe it when I saw our radio assistant, Flavia, waving her hand that it was time to wrap things up. The experience was very gratifying and I would most certainly be willing to partake in similar events in the future.

Getting ready to go into the room for my interview!

Pedro, Nelson and Erica, who were on the show for the first half.

Looking in from outside the soundproof radio booth.

All smiles because it was a total success!

Thanks Pedro, Nelson, Erica, Flavia, ProPaz and Radio Mi Condominio!

Farms and a Brazilian Steakhouse!

2010-04-24T23:00:00.000-04:30

I was out in Valencia at a Rotary Conference (soon to be written about) and went out to meet a Portuguese friend (he's practically Venezuelan- he's lived here since 1986!) at his farm in San Francisco de Asis, outside of Maracay. I loved the feeling of being out in the country, away from the insanity and noise of Caracas. It was refreshing to be around extensive grassy areas and animals.

I'd never been to a chicken farm before, so this was a new experience for me. The cheep-cheep of the newborn chicks was therapeutic, as was getting to play with them a little bit.

This little one only weighed 35 grams because she just hatched the night before. The coloring on her head is from a vaccine that there are given immediately upon arrival. Noé told me that the chicks hatch at night at another farm and are brought to him the next morning, before their first meal. That way, he has total control over what they eat and their health.

Weighing the little one. Here you can see the first feathers that grow on the wings. Because of that, they don't stay for very long in these cages with the doors open.

Once in awhile they get a couple of outcasts...roosters! These little guys somehow made it into the mix of hens and will be separated soon. Obviously, for an egg (and not breeding) farm, it's not advantageous to have a bunch of roosters running around! Noé told me that out of the 42,000(!!) chicks that were delivered to him, only a handful turn out to be roosters, as seen by their distinctive markings.

"Run for it, guys!! Jump out here and save yourselves!!" is what it seems like these chicks are saying. Honestly, I felt bad for them, living their whole lives in cages... :( but found this image hilarious because it looks like they're trying to organize a break-out. :)

Apparently the practice as chicks pays off- this hen (that looks semi-rooster to me) managed to fly the coop!! But not for long... Noé is an expert chicken-catcher.

It took him less than 10 seconds to catch the runaway!

After our afternoon on the farm, we went to this amazing Brazilian "churrasquería," or steakhouse, Pare Stop Centro Turístico. I was way too busy being fascinated by the seemingly endless tables of food and waiters who kept coming by the table to offer us any of many delicious meats and even pineapple roasted with cinnamon and sugar. The latter was my favorite and I went for seconds- there's no better desert! And the battered-fried bananas were out of this world. There were tables of sushi, seafood, jamón serrano, cheeses, veggies and anything else imaginable.

The photo above is of one of our many waiters pouring us a shot of the Spanish liqueur "43". It was quite tasty, but VERY strong. Since it has to be served very cold, the bottle is frozen into a block of ice so that when it is being wheeled around on the drinks cart, it stays cold. By the way, he didn't spill a drop!

The photos on this blog show every different part of the restaurant except the sushi bar(!!) and the women's restroom. He comments that the experience to the steakhouse made him feel like Alice in Wonderland. Kudos to the blogger for a great entry! As you can see, Pare Stop is a must-visit for anyone coming to Caracas.

The Pemón in the Gran Sabana

2010-04-22T23:07:00.004-04:30

Venezuela made the "front page" of the New York Times website today, and I found the article to be of particular interest because I was just in this region a few weeks ago. I will be writing an entry about my 9-day trip to Gran Sabana, but as I have probably 600 photos and a lot to say, it is a work in progress.

La Gran Sabana, or the Great Savannah, is a region inhabited mostly by the Pemón indigenous tribes. They live in circular mud brick homes with a type of thatch roof. Having been inside a few of them at the campground we stayed at (run by Pemón families), I can attest to how well they keep out the heat. Even the sun beating down on them (the same sun that made it necessary for us to regularly apply at least 50SPF sunscreen) doesn't make the temperature rise.

Pemón Houses at our Campsite

While we were riding back to Caracas, I saw many small smoke clouds. I was immensely curious as to what they were from. I just assumed that they were burning garbage, as it seems like it would be difficult to have regular garbage collection in some of the more remote areas (*random sidenote* Last weekend I passed by the huge landfill where all of Caracas' garbage goes, just outside of Santa Teresa and Maracay.). At one point we passed by a fire raging along the side of the road in the shrubs. A bit later, I saw signs forbidding fires in the area:"Let's respect the biodiversity." I was confused by all of this because in Caracas, the wildfires seemed to be accidental. I didn't know that in certain regions, the fires were intentionally set.

This article tells the story of the Pemón and how setting these fires is a part of their way of life. Make sure to check out the photo gallery, too. The Gran Sabana is definitely one of the most beautiful and unique places I've ever been. Soon I hope to share the photos and stories here!

Interesting...

2010-04-20T20:32:00.003-04:30

The sign in the window says "Not for Sale." Were you thinking of putting in a bid?? ;)

I saw this on the way out of a parking lot and loved it.

Happy Birthday, Venezuela!

2010-04-19T23:04:00.007-04:30

Today, April 19th, 2010, was the bicentennial of the writing and approval of the first declaration of independence of Venezuela. However, it wasn't until July 5, 1811 that they were truly independent from Spain. The signing on April 19th was significant in part because it helped political revolutionaries like Simón Bolívar, who is very much revered even today, rise to fame and help Venezuela achieve true freedom from Spain. In fact, the country was even recently renamed "The Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela" in his honor and the airport now carries his name as well. You can read more about the 19th of April here (it's in English).

Last night at 12:00AM, I awoke to loud booms and bangs and, in my sleepy stupor, was kind of worried. I mean, it's not every day that one awakes to such a racket. Then, on a hunch, I looked at my cell phone and saw "19 abril 2010" and "12:01AM." Then it hit me that it was just a celebration. I ran to look out the window and was able to capture it on my camera.

Then this afternoon, I went to a ceremony that was both commemorating the opening of a new public square/gathering area in the Chacao municipality and honoring the 200th anniversary of the signing of the first declaration of independence. A local orchestra rehearsed a few songs while we waited for the event to begin and a group of local musicians played Venezuelan folk music. The event was delayed as we waited for the guests of honor (the local mayors, political leaders, etc) to arrive. They eventually got there... with a parade!

The mayor of Chacao (on left) and the mayor of Caracas

The mayor of Caracas speaking

Unfortunately, soon after we were forced to run for cover when the heavens opened up on us. After the rains ceased, we returned to socialize a bit. That was when I got to meet a few councilmen, a radio show host and even the mayor of Chacao, Emilio Graterón! He treated me like an old friend and made me feel very welcome in his municipality. In fact, everyone I met was very open and friendly, even though I had never met them before and was obviously not Venezuelan. It was a great feeling.

Me and the mayor of Chacao!

So all in all, it was an exciting day here in Caracas, drama-free and positive. Cheers, Venezuela!

To sauce or not to sauce....definitely no contest here!

2010-03-25T00:01:00.006-04:30

Since I've been living here in Caracas, I have found that there are foods from home that I miss, as happens every time I travel. However, sauces are most certainly not a part of this list. Sauces are varied and abundant: I've never even heard of some of them!

I went to one of the Calle de Hambre (literally, "Hunger Street"), where there used to be lines of hot dog, hamburger and other fast food carts. In the last few years, there have been many improvements and now there are actual restaurants instead of the carts. I went into one of the restaurants with some friends and got to experience the best of the best, all potentially covered in 1,000 different sauces.

Auto Lunch Adriana- your friends' hamburgers!

The sauces that were out on our table when we arrived- were they enough to satisfy us?

He says "¡sí!"

This hot dog brings new meaning to getting it with the works! You don't even need to get french fries because it comes with potato chips already on it.

This stuff smelled like liquid popcorn with extra butter...

My hamburger had a ridiculous number of toppings- bean sprouts, egg, tomato, lettuce, cheese and I don't even know what else! But it was quite tasty.

After a hearty meal, my Rotary counselor, Katy, and I were quite content to show off the additional sauces we could've used if the ones on our table weren't enough.

If you'd like it to rain...

2010-03-20T23:04:00.002-04:30

Update on the heat: I have actually gotten goosebumps from the chilly air both in the morning and at night since I wrote the last blog entry (it finally rained a little, cleaned the air a bit and cooled off slightly after sundown)...

DISCLAIMER: The link below is for entertainment purposes and in no way am I expressing my dislike or support for the current government. I simply found this entry funny, about how to finally get it to rain here in Venezuela. This entry has nothing to do with the government, but rather with Murphy's Law.

Along the same lines, when I was searching for a modern-day rain dance or something of the like, I found this: a surefire method for getting it to rain!

If you can't stand the heat...

2010-03-18T23:16:00.004-04:30

Bet you thought I was going to say "get out of the kitchen," didn't you?

Unfortunately, it's hot everywhere in Caracas, even outside the kitchen. According to my weather widget on my desktop, it's been in the 90s for at least the past three weeks or maybe month. Most people I've talked to back home have told me how lucky I am that it's warm here, that it's still snowing/raining/sleeting still, etc. Then I tell them how hot it is. They are no longer jealous.

Why is this heat such a big deal?

First of all, it's making everyone irritable. Even the stray dog down the street was irritable the other day and came after me on the way to class. There have been electricity consumption limits put into place everywhere in the country, which means that although the temperatures have been sky-high, the air conditioners in most places are being turned off or way down, as well as some elevators and most escalators.

In addition, there have been extensive problems with the subway system lately. I can't really speculate as to why exactly there are such delays (I do however know that the sauna-like conditions inside some of the subway cars are because they are raising the temperature on the air-conditioning to lower energy consumption and that, combined with an excessive number of passengers, it makes things quite steamy), but I have heard that it has to do with electrical problems and on several occasions I know for a fact that it was for a more morbid reason I'd rather not get into. So everyone packs into the cars with little regard for the comfort of those around them because we've all got places to be. One morning before class the situation was so bad that I had to wait for 4 trains to pass before being able to get into the 5th. Maybe 2 people could get into each car every time one train came, and there was a delay between trains.

It's been so hot and dry that El Ávila, the beautiful mountain range we have to the north of the city went up in flames in several different parts on different days recently. I watched the flames for hours from a friend's apartment and, because of the drought, a small helicopter flew over with water only two times that day/night. The smoke covered the whole city with a grey cloud of ash.

A sad, sad sight I hope not to see again.

Also because of the lack of rain and excessive heat (apparently the heat we've been experiencing the last few weeks isn't normal, even for the native Caracans), the valley has been unable to purify its air. I've been told that the air from Caracas gets "recycled" every day and fresh air comes through because of the winds (I'm no scientist, so if anyone would like to explain this concept to me, please do!). However, lately this hasn't been happening and this grey cloud of pollution hasn't gone away, even though the mountain is no longer burning.

I usually arrive home sweaty and hot, wanting to take 5 showers a day (no worries, I don't- after all, there's a water shortage!) and exhausted. I sometimes have to wash clothes I've only worn for the morning or afternoon because of the condition in which I arrive home.

Are you starting to see how this could make someone irritable? I've definitely had my moments lately. I actually started to feel nostalgia for the icy temperatures of Cleveland in January. I've joked that on some days, it's so hot that the idea of rolling around in the snow in a bathing suit sounds just great to me!

So what does one do when it's so hot that even the stinky, warm breeze of the incoming subway train feels refreshing? Well, here is how I've gotten through it:

1) Never underestimate the power of a fan, especially when your bedroom doesn't have a window. Enough said.

2) COLD water. Enough said.

3) COLD water with Nestea powder mixed in it.

4) Laughing at the things that are out of the ordinary or just plain don't make sense!

Chacao police on Segways!

5) Air-conditioned belly-dance classes, museums and outdoor nighttime yoga sessions (soon to start!)

6) Talking to people in cold climates while drinking Nestea.

7) Spending time with friends- they always distract me from the fact that I'm roasting! :-)

Out with friends at the Hard Rock Cafe.

8) I know which side of the street is going to be shady at any given time of day. Enough said.

9) Reading something interesting (or required for class the next day, either one will make me sit still for awhile, which helps me cool off).

10) Opening up all windows and doors in the apartment and standing in the cross-breeze.

11) COLD showers (plus I'm saving energy by not using the water heater!)

12) Rolling around in clay/mud (you know, like the elephants do!). Nope, not kidding!

Told you I wasn't kidding! At a natural clay deposit at La Sabana, a beach close to Caracas. As seen by my expression, this is a very strange concept to me.

Man, I'm hot. I think I'd better take my own advice, drink some COLD water and remain as immobile as possible (i.e. go to bed :) ). Until next time, here's hoping you're enjoying whatever climate you're in right now. I know that, in spite of everything, I'm still having a great time!

Political Marches in Caracas- Red or White?

2010-03-05T12:30:00.011-04:30

Disclaimer: The opinions represented here are my personal views on current events here, and not necessarily those of Rotary International or the Rotary Foundation .

On January 23, 2010, two very different political marches took place. January 23 is an important date in Venezuelan history, as it was the day that the dictatorial regime of Marcos Pérez Jiménez (1952-1958) was overthrown. Fifty-two years have passed since then. Venezuelans from all parts of the country flocked to Caracas to show their support for the Chávez-led government or to march for changes to the current system.

The first of the marches, described as the "Red Tide," was made up of government supporters dressed in red. I was not present at this march, which happened simultaneously in a different part of town than the opposition march, for a few reasons. First, in this march they were celebrating no longer being under a dictatorship and forming part of the current socialist revolution, which aims to rid the country of imperialistic influences (such as the USA). Since I am from the US and tensions tend to be high at events such as these, it was in my best interest to stay far from the march. In addition, I recieved an email from the US Embassy in Caracas advising me to stay away.

I went with a group to observe the other march, a peaceful protest against some of the current government's policies. Unfortunately, many marchers were not permitted to enter Caracas (especially anti-government marchers) and their buses were forced to turn around and return to the city from which they had come. The slogan for this march was "Chávez, you're outta here!", a baseball reference. According to this article, the slogan came from a baseball game in Valencia in which students had it written on a sign and the National Guard confiscated the sign and jailed two of the students. Throughout the march's route, there were quite a few policemen and other security officers, which didn't help the already high tensions (if you're working as a policeman or are in the military, it is assumed that you are a government supporter) in the opposition march. Also, a government helicopter circled over the march a few times, which led to loud protests. I asked a friend why they were yelling at the helicopter and he explained that when there is a pro-government march or event, helicopters are not allowed to fly over them. However, since this was an opposition march, the same rules were not followed.

Policemen along the side of the road watching the march.

The morning was extremely hot and humid and the majority of the opposition marchers wore hats and white shirts (representing peace). I was glad to be wearing a neutral green shirt so as not to be considered part of either group.

Since pictures are worth a thousand words, here is the march as seen through my camera.

Government propaganda above the subway station, which was right along the route of the march. "Thanks to President Chávez they can travel safely in the dignity car" (the first car of every subway train is designated for pregnant women, senior citizens and persons with disabilities).

"You, Chávez, are outta here!" (or "have struck out").

Some of the marchers.

More of the marchers.

"As a Venezuelan, I demand decent public services: drinking water, electricity, public hygiene, safety, employment. I demand respect..."

"Freedom is a right, not an option."

"This isn't life. Every day more Venezuelans die as victims of violence before the indifference of the government. We want to live in peace!"

"No more power outages"

"3 Strikes: lights, water, electricity. President, you're outta here!"

This video is of a Chávez supporter (the man in the red shirt, waving the red flag) walking through a shopping center right by where the anti-government march ended. I was shocked that this man would intentionally put himself in the middle of this situation. It could've very easily become violent. You can see towards the middle of the video a part where he gets into an argument with an anti-chavista woman.

Motorizados in Caracas

2010-02-19T23:50:00.003-04:30

I found this link about motorcyclists in Caracas a couple months ago and have been thinking about it lately. Well, I'll admit it- I've been thinking about them because I've been on the road a lot in the last few weeks and they have been a source of my stress. This video intrigued me because it fairly accurately portrays the traffic situation here, and how dangerous the motorcycles really are. Much of the video is shot in Chacao, the only place in Caracas you will see a substantial number of police enforcing traffic laws, one of the safest (and my favorite) areas.

I had my first experience with the motorcycle "gangs" (I put it in quotations because I think most of the time the bikers don't know each other well, but group together to get through a red light or protect each other) on the way to Caracas from the airport for the first time. I remember being dumbstruck as I watched as cars moved to let an ambulance pass by and the ambulance had a motorcycle tail. That is, it looked as if the group of tightly packed motorcyclists were somehow attached to the bumper, as they stayed close behind it in lines. Besides the fact that I hadn't slept the night before and was having trouble processing all of the new stimuli, this motorcycle tail just didn't make sense to me. I asked the people I was with, and they explained it simply enough- the motorizados are taking advantage of the fact that traffic is moving aside to let the ambulance through, and if they stay close behind, they too can pass before the traffic fills in the gaps once again.

I won't deny it- I have almost been hit by these motorcycle drivers and have heard many stories about car drivers clipping them because of the erratic driving habits they have. My roommate has had to take a moto taxi so as not to arrive late to work. I asked her if she was scared and she said that, yes, it made her nervous, but that she had no choice- it was the fastest way to get to work. Ironically, this unsafe way of transportation is actually more expensive than a regular taxi. Weaving through the cars, I have seen many drivers suffer road rage- the car drivers because the motorizados get too close to the cars and get very close to causing accidents and the motorizados because the car drivers didn't pull over far enough for them to zip through the line of cars.

One of the scariest things that can happen to a driver is to hit a motorizado. Regardless of the outcome or if there is substantial damage to the motorizado or his moto, he will find himself literally surrounded by every motorizado that happened to be passing through. The motorizados stick together and protect themselves, no matter if they are in the right or not. It can be frustrating and at times traumatizing for someone used to somewhat strict traffic laws (I mean in the US) and some degree of law and order. A friend of mine clipped a motorcycle not too long ago and was pressured to pay for the parts that he had supposedly broken when he hit the moto. He had been told that, if he was ever in that situation, to remain calm and not lose his cool, even if other motorizados showed up and started threatening.

Once, while coming home from a beach trip, we saw a motorcycle weave through traffic, miscalculate and fall over. Nothing happened to the moto nor the guy, but immediately traffic stopped and I saw the other motorizados arrive. There were 6 of us in the car and the only one who is also a motorizado wanted to jump out of the car and help the guy. The rest of us were in the process of making sure our doors were locked! It was the strangest feeling in the world- in that moment I felt like that friend and I were complete strangers because our reactions were so different.

My point is, if you ever come to Caracas, please please please be careful around the motorizados and don't expect them to stay off the sidewalks just because you're on them! Don't worry mom, I always watch out!

Money, money, money

2010-02-02T11:31:00.000-04:30

100 Bolívares

50 Bolívares

20 Bolívares

Does anyone really understand how this whole money thing works down here?? Between the inflation, black market dollar and CADIVI, I still get confused.

Now let's back up to the basics. The official currency of Venezuela is Bolívares Fuertes (BsF). Up until January 2010 $1=2.15BsF. This all sounds well and good until you take the following into consideration:

McDonald's Combo Meal: approx. 35BsF =$16.28!!

Normal, everyday Sedal or Herbal Essences shampoo or conditioner: approx. 19BsF=$8.84

Decent quality computer table (one that might cost $50 in the US): approx. 550BsF=$256

Liter of boxed, radiated (not fresh) milk (1/4 of a gallon=quart): 4-6BsF=$1.86-2.79

250 grams (0.55lbs) turkey breast: 24BsF=$11.16

Now you can start to see where problems arise. The prices here in Venezuela are based on the dollar's value in the black market. The black market?! Yes, the black market.

The "dólar paralelo," or "parallel dollar" value varies depending on how many dollars are floating around the Venezuelan economy, which is a direct result of how many dollars the government makes available to buy (it's quite complicated to explain-I'm still trying to understand it), supply and demand. As of today, the rate is at $1=6.05BsF. Since I've been here, the rate has varied between $1=5-6.5BsF. If you take this rate into consideration, the prices listed above make more sense. At a rate of $1=6BsF, the prices become the following:

McDonald's Combo Meal: approx. 35BsF =$5.83

Normal, everyday Sedal or Herbal Essences shampoo or conditioner: approx. 19BsF=$3.17

Decent quality computer table (one that might cost $50 in the US): approx. 550BsF=$91.67

Liter of boxed, radiated (not fresh) milk (1/4 of a gallon=quart): 4-6BsF=$0.67-1

250 grams (0.55lbs) deli turkey breast: 24BsF=$4

Seems a bit more reasonable, no?

But how does one obtain BsF "legally" at the official rate and how does one obtain BsF in the black market? The legal way would be by using a foreign credit card, transferring money to a bank account here or other "normal" ways to access money abroad. However, most tourists, knowing ahead of time of the potential problems that may arise when going through these legal channels and being fully aware of the fact that they will be getting very little BsF for their buck, find other ways to exchange their money.

I've had many conversations with Venezuelans about this subject and they've explained how the black market works. It's essentially quite simple: you find the most trustworthy person you can(which in the case of very short trips, may be the hotel or tour guide) and ask them to exchange your dollars. Exchange rates are negotiable- sometimes your trustworthy person will offer you less than the black market rate... and other times you will be offered even more than the black market rate if there is competition for your dollars. Voilá! You now have BsF... just cross your fingers that they're not counterfeit!

Everyone still with me?

Now let's jump the money fence to get to the typical Venezuelan's side. CADIVI (the Venezuelan commision for the administration of currency=the ones who decide how many bolivares you can exchange per year) is both their best friend and worse enemy: best friend because it is the only way for them to exchange their BsF for dollars (legally)... enemy because there are strict limitations on how many BsF they can exchange. Say you want to take a long weekend getaway to Aruba or Curacao. You have to consult here to find out how much money you will be allowed to exchange. Refer to the second chart down, where it says Destinos perjudicados: Panamá, Colombia y otras Islas del Caribe. Aruba and Curacao fall under the third category, "Otras Islas del Caribe". If you're going for 1-3 days, you are allowed to exchange $500, for 4-7 days, $700. Wait a minute? For one day I can get $500, but for 7, only $700?? I've been told that hotel rooms in Curacao can cost around $100 a night in some places. So with what money do you pay for transportation? Buy food? Drinks? These are questions I've asked myself a lot recently.

Also, if you'd like to buy anything online (where most companies do NOT accept bolivares), you have to have a credit card (that you've had for at least a year, from an approved bank) and fill out allllll kinds of paperwork in quintuplicate, black and white...or was it grayscale? (I'm not kidding, really!) yet can only spend $400... a year! Same goes for applying for travel money. In the short time I've been here, I've already seen how difficult the process is. My roommate is going through it now. She waited for 3 hours in the bank, just to get to the teller and be told that they couldn't accept her application...because the cover page was printed in color (as it appears on the website).

Let's return to the concept of the black market. Because of the monetary restrictions placed on Venezuelans wishing to travel, many solicit the "help" of those who have dollars, and are willing to pay around 6BsF for every precious dollar they can get. The advantageous rate you get from the government seems great in comparison- but it just simply isn't enough to cover your vacation costs.

With all of these exchange rates around, which one do you pick? Obviously the ideal situation is for the Venezuelan to exchange his or her BsF at the rate of $1=2.15BsF discussed earlier. But wait! As of a couple of weeks ago, you can no longer get that rate. President Chávez devalued the bolívar in January. The following is an excerpt from the CIA World Factbook explaining it:

In January, 2010, CHAVEZ announced a dual exchange rate system for the fixed rate bolivar. The system offers a 2.6 bolivar per dollar rate for imports of essentials, including food, medicine, and industrial machinery, and a 4.3 bolivar per dollar rate for imports of other products, including cars and telephones.

Translation, please? All of the products, like washing machines, cars, telephones, so-called "non-essential" products that are imported, just doubled in price. A phone that was imported for $100 and sold for 215BsF is now going to cost 430BsF. When this went into effect, many stores immediately doubled their prices on electronics (even though they should've sold the remaining stock at the former prices and changed them once they got new stock in) and the national guard was called in. For food and other essentials, this should bring the price down. Before, the stores had to get their dollars however they could, often buying at the 6BsF rate. Now that they have a legal way of obtaining 2.6, the price should, in theory, go down. However, I have noticed that this is not the case. I obviously am not an expert and haven't been to all of the grocery stores, but I have noticed an increase in the ones I have visited.

The economic system here is enough to make your head spin... I have never studied economics, but even if I had, I think this is a special case that would be complicated for most to understand. Even so, Venezuela is my home right now and I'll keep working to make sense of this complicated situation.

Stark Differences

2010-01-25T23:26:00.008-04:30

I have a few blog entries in the works, but in the meantime, I wanted to comment on the stark differences between Caracas and Cleveland... Before you think "this is going to be another profound blog entry," I invite you to look at the following pictures. This has to be my favorite "stark difference" ever!

January in Cleveland

January in Caracas! :-D

Baseball in Venezuela

2010-01-04T15:50:00.004-04:30

I was watching some of the New York Time's videos on YouTube and this one about baseball in Venezuela came up randomly! It's true, in baseball, the game is what matters. I hope to go to a game soon!

Spreading Christmas Joy in Caracas

2010-01-03T13:55:00.006-04:30

Santa with the awesome kids from Casa de Ana

A couple of weeks ago, I was privileged enough to be invited to help out at the Christmas party at Casa de Ana, a children’s home located in Hoyo de la Puerta, outside of Caracas proper. It is a center for children who have had some sort of problem with the legal system, whether they directly or not cause it. Currently there are 18 boys living at this home being cared for by a Venezuelan couple, who have three children of their own living with them as well. Rotary Club Petare visits the home once a month, donates food items, and visits with the children. From the moment I walked in, I could tell that this wasn’t like any children’s home I had ever been in, even taking into account the unusual excitement that it was time for the Christmas party. The boys were extremely friendly, inquisitive, respectful and appreciative of everything. I got more hugs than I thought possible in the first ten minutes I was there.

Me with a couple of my new buddies (and to think, the boy in red wouldn't even talk for the first part of the party- seeing that smile made my day!)

Santa arrived soon after and gave out presents that the local Rotary Clubs had donated. The boys reveled over their new long-sleeved shirts, jeans and stuffed animals, and then carefully placed them on their respective beds and returned to the party.

Carefully opening up their presents.

One of the more comical moments happened when Santa (who is, as unlikely as it seems, a Zumba fitness instructor) brought a boy over and sat him on his knee. He then asked him what he would do with the next present if his friend or his sibling liked it as well. The boy answered that he would share it with that person, of course. It turned out that Santa didn’t know that the next gift was one you really shouldn’t share- underwear!

Then there was dancing and singing, and finally the food started to come out and we set up a feast for everyone. I had brought enough oatmeal chocolate chip cookies to feed an army and there were platters of quail eggs, special Christmas ham and raisin bread, Christmas chicken salad and other delectable dishes. The boys waited patiently for their turns to fill their plates and seemed to enjoy every last bite.

Anxiously awaiting the feast.

I was so inspired by the attitude of everyone there that I have decided to return to the home with activities of my own. Because everyone liked the cookies I made, I would like to return with supplies and help them to bake their own cookies. Also, because of the boys’ motivation to learn English and my experiences in Spain teaching English to children of their age, I plan to go back and spend a morning teaching them English songs and games. Ideally, this will happen in February.

This visit was, for me, what Christmas is all about. I can't wait to keep up the Christmas spirit in the coming months. :)

My First Impressions

2010-01-03T01:52:00.001-04:30

Because I am a Rotary Foundation Ambassadorial Scholar, I am required to write a report a few months into my experience about the year so far. It was a learning experience for me to try to summarize up over 3 months of intense feelings, experiences and events. Here are my unedited thoughts. I welcome commentary, as it may help me to understand Caracas even better.

My first impressions of Venezuela and its people have been varied. I was, in part, pleasantly surprised by how much help has been offered to me in the little time that I have been there. No petition for assistance went unheeded. In my opinion, there isn’t a “typical Venezuelan” person. The racial and cultural differences in the population are fascinating; walking through Caracas and observing the people is akin to sitting in a park in New York City and watching the people go by. The Venezuelans that I have met, for the most part, have been very warm, happy people and have invited me into their families and homes with open arms.

Lunch with Rotary Las Mercedes President Pedro, wife Gina and daughter Nevai

Giving a Rotary Club of Cleveland pen to my awesome host counselor, Katy.

However, many Venezuelans have told me that in recent years, the people haven’t been as optimistic or open as they once were; some blame the government, others blame globalization, still others blame the economic recession. The people are extremely divided in their opinions of the government, and it is not uncommon for anti- and pro-government groups to clash. One of my goals for the rest of the year is to speak with more of the pro-government people, as most of the people I have met through my university tend to lean towards anti-government sentiments.

A pro-Chavez, anti-USA sign and sticker I saw outside of the UCV's library.

Everyone has their own reasons for these changes and divisions in attitudes, opinions and behaviors, but everyone seems to agree that safety is a problem in Caracas today. I have received many warnings not to go to certain parts of town, leave my house alone after a certain time, etc. It can be frustrating for me sometimes to not feel comfortable leaving my house after 6PM when I have errands to run or I need to meet up with a classmate, but I have found ways around it. It’s just another aspect of life in the big city that I have to adjust to.

On a more positive note, Venezuela itself is a beautiful country. In Caracas, there is artwork everywhere, parks abound and the variety of birds is astounding. I have a fascination with the brightly colored macaws that fly free in pairs over the city. I can hear them at 5:30AM when I get up for class, rawking and waking everyone up; much different than the roosters we’re used to hearing at that hour! El Ávila, a beautiful mountain that can be seen to the north from any part of Caracas, boasts many trails to climb up and cable cars to ascend for an easier trip up.

At the keys off the coast of Venezuela with my Venezuelan "brother," Goldsmidt

I took a weekend trip to the beach, in the state of Falcon, and was impressed by the beauty of the islands off the coast of the country. I attended an all-day free music festival hosted by the government and the energy in the crowd was electric and very positive. At the UCV, there is always a wide variety of theater and dance shows offered every week. The Aula Magna, as the theater is called, is well known in all of Latin America for its superior acoustic qualities. I attended a modern version of the Nutcracker ballet, with flamenco dancers and stilt walkers and a dialogue by the Venezuelan actress, Elba Escobar. Groups of aspiring jugglers, dancers and friends get together after class and on the weekends outside of the theater.

I couldn't resist posting this picture. Terry the ferocious puppy set it up all by himself. He finally tired of jumping up and trying to get on my bed after I ignored him. The next time I looked down at him, this was what I saw-note the placement of his toy...what a goofball! He's definitely my favorite Venezuelan puppy!

I'm looking forward to seeing what 2010 has to bring!

Visit to Catia de la Mar "Casa Misioneras de la Caridad"- Children with Brain Paralysis and the Mother Theresa nuns

2009-12-06T23:58:00.001-04:30

One of those breathtaking moments I mentioned in an earlier entry happened a month or so ago. I went with the local Rotaract group, Rotaract Avila (in formation), to a center for kids with special needs, mostly ones with brain paralysis. The center is run by a group of 8 nuns of the Mother Theresa Order. These women are incredible... they left me breathless with their dedication, smiles and knowledge. This was one of the best facilities of this type I have seen (including in the US)- clean, wonderfully decorated to stimulate the children, which they need because of their condition, and a loving environment. One of the nuns took us through the baby-toddler wing and later through the older children's wing and introduced us to each child, explained their condition and "translated" their movements. One little girl moved her hand in a way that showed she was happy, another smiled... the nuns know every last expression that these children make. Because of the severity of their health problems, most will never be able to leave the center and go into a normal family home.

There were a few stories that stuck with me after the visit was over and still haunt me. They told us how one little boy was normal until he was five months old, at which point someone threw him up in the air, as we all do with little babies (they love it!). Unfortunately, he hit his head on the ceiling and from that point on was permanently disabled from the head trauma. Another child, a little girl, was found tied up with wires behind a dumpster. The nuns who discovered her had to shoo away the rats that were beginning to eat away at her skin. They told us how the laws and regulations have changed and now they are forbidden from going into the streets and picking up the children who need their help. Now, as in many other places, they have to battle the red tape to be able to continue with their work. It makes me wonder what will happen to the kids like the little girl who was tied up behind the dumpster. Who will care for them? Even while telling these stories, they never stopped smiling, even though it turned into a "we just have to keep pushing forward" smile.

I left the center that day with mixed feelings. First, I was amazed by the work being done for these children that almost no one wanted. Then I was feeling hopeful because the nuns had told us that a couple of the children's parents had come to the center to take their children home (in one case, the mother dropped the child off, and the father came back for the child). It still doesn't take away all the sadness that I felt knowing that these children would never have lives of their own, but I am grateful to these nuns and other workers who are giving them the best lives that they can possibly have.

If anyone is interested in donating to this center, please contact me.

Battle of the Bolivarian Bulge

2009-11-18T10:49:00.003-04:30

Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez frequently makes speeches about the well-being of the Venezuelan people, along with other topics. This time, my own mother wrote me to tell me of a speech she heard about in which Chavez discussed the growing obesity problem in the country. Turns out the US is not the only one having problems with an obese population. Here are the articles (one in English and the other in Spanish) about the issue.

Chavez identifica una nueva amenaza para Venezuela: la obesidad

Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez urges citizens to lose weight

Hmmm... going hiking up the mountain again today sounds even better after reading all of this!

Gas is HOW much?

2009-11-17T21:29:00.003-04:30

For reference purposes, $1=5,4oBsF (approx.)

I was out with a friend the other day and he informed me that we would be stopping to fill up the gas tank. While the attendant went to work, I saw that my friend had a 5BsF (approx. 0.92USD) bill on his lap. I looked at him, incredulous, and asked if he was planning on filling up the whole tank with that (it was only half-empty). He looked down at the bill and said "Yeah, I didn't have anything smaller to pay with!" My mouth still agape, I asked how much a tank was. He laughed and said gas was pretty much free. Another friend had mentioned once that when the government raised the price of gas by a minuscule amount, there were huge protests and they were forced to lower the price back down.

So the final cost of a 28.38 liter, or 7.5 gallon, fill-up was 2,75BsF, or appoximately 0.50USD. Geez, almost broke the bank! Must be why a metro ride costs 0,45BsF (0.08USD).

To give you an idea of what things cost here, an arepa (see previous posts) is around 12BsF, a newspaper 1-1,50BsF, a liter of milk around 5-6BsF, 10-15BsF for a loaf of bread... a tank of gas, around 5.50BsF, or about $1. Crazy!

The price of gas, while seemingly wonderful for those of us who pay an arm and a leg to fill up the tank in the US and Europe, is not very positive in my opinion. While the excess of cars on the road also has to do with a lack of roads, I strongly believe that if gas were more expensive, there wouldn't be as many cars on the road. Parking at the mall or anywhere in town is nearly impossible; you can spend a half hour just looking for a spot in the parking deck! Plus, the pollution is intense in the city from the exhaust (no E-Check here!). Most people don't think twice about taking several cars when a group of friends go out and think it's strange that I'm always trying to figure out a way to carpool (it's ingrained into me). I have to catch myself when I consider offering gas money. It's almost an insult. :-P

Just another random observation from the place where anything can happen!

U.S. Embassy Warning

2009-11-14T12:30:00.004-04:30

A couple days ago I got an email from the U.S. Embassy in Caracas....warning me about the protests and demonstrations in Venezuela! I realize that it's not a funny situation, but I laughed at the irony of receiving this email weeks after my first experiences with the protests. I read through the characteristics of these sometimes violent events and couldn't help but shake my head, because they were 100% accurate... but I had learned this by actually living through them!

Here is a copy of part of the message I received, with some comments of mine in parenthesis.

This Warden Message alerts U.S. citizens traveling to and residing in Venezuela that political marches and demonstrations are frequent in Caracas and in Venezuela. Travelers should be aware that violence, including exchanges of gunfire and tear gas, has occurred at political demonstrations in the past (I saw them launching tear gas bombs from the 6th floor of my faculty building) Demonstrations tend to occur at or near university campuses (most of the protests I've seen have been at the entrances to the UCV campus), business centers, and gathering places such as public squares and plazas (and the other one was at Plaza Venezuela). Marches generally occur on busy thoroughfares, significantly impacting traffic (no one could get to my one afternoon class because they closed off Plaza Venezuela because of the protests, and when they block the UCV entrances with burning tires and garbage, no one can get on campus by car/bus).

We wish to remind U.S. citizens that even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and possibly escalate into violence (like this one in Plaza Venezuela, where 8-10 people were injured- when my professor realized what was going on, she said class was canceled and gave me a ride home, just in case). American citizens are therefore urged to avoid the areas of demonstrations if possible, and to exercise caution if within the vicinity of any demonstrations. Since the timing and routes of marches and demonstrations are always subject to change, American citizens should monitor local media sources and the Embassy’s website, through the American Citizens’ “Demonstrations” link, for new developments.

In the center of the picture you can see the low-flying police helicopter over Plaza Venezuela, October 21.

The smoke you can see is from the tear gas bombs that were launched in an attempt to pacify the protest.

Needless to say, I always am careful around here, because as I've come to realize- en Venezuela, todo es posible. However, I do want to comment that no matter where you are in the world (like Youngstown and Cleveland, both cities that made the top 10 most dangerous US city list one year), you need to exercise caution. I don't necessarily feel all that unsafe here because I am constantly watching my back and don't put myself into questionable situations. No worries mom, I am taking good care of myself, and the Rotarians and my other friends are too. :)

Venezula??

2009-11-09T00:01:00.001-04:30

Just a quick post to apologize for spelling Venezuela wrong in my blog title. I can't believe I've had it up for so long and no one has kindly mentioned it to me! Sorry about that. For your reference, it should be "VenezuEla", not "Venezula".

Protests, Strikes, No hay agua...just another week here in Caracas

2009-11-06T23:30:00.001-04:30

First of all, sorry for not being very timely in my posts lately! I've had a lot of difficulties with various aspects of life down here (mainly school-related) and haven't had much time or energy to write. As I'm writing this I'm thinking about when I had to get up for a 7AM video conference and that tomorrow I'm getting up early to go visit a center for young people with cancer. I was worried about being able to "attend" the video conference and was thinking I wouldn't be able to if internet went down, my roommate's puppy chewed through the internet cable, power went off or my alarm didn't go off (the second two have happened already). As I keep reiterating, here in Venezuela, anything is possible.

But luckily, being able to write this post means a few things: Terry the cute little ball of fur has not chewed through any cords, the water is back on (even though it was off most of the day), the hot water tank is fixed (oh didn't I mention the switchplate melted and there was almost a fire?), and I'm getting caught up on schoolwork.

It hasn't been easy and I haven't always done things the right way, I'll be the first to admit that (and my friends and family will remind me of it whenever necessary!). But I feel like I'm finally getting somewhere. I've been able to get my opinion heard in class (it's not like at YSU, where you raised your hand- it's a free-for-all debate, which sometimes means that if I'm not on top of things, I don't get a word in edgewise) and have even been asked for my views on certain topics that have to do with the USA. I was surprised at the amount of readings we were assigned in English. On that note, one day in class we were discussing an article on decision-making units by Margaret Hermann from OSU, and I had understood it perfectly because it was in English and straight-forward. I could relate to the examples. Then I found out that some of the points she made didn't apply in the Venezuelan context. That class was one of the most interesting I've had so far, because my classmates helped me to understand some of the key differences between the USA and Venezuela in that subject and I realized that just because it made sense to me didn't mean it was going to make sense to others.

I've been asking everyone questions about everything here. Luckily, I have some really awesome friends who don't mind. "What does this mean?" "Is a girl looked down upon for taking the pill/contraceptives?" "Can I walk here by myself?" "What's a 'totuma'?" (I will explain this one later, it has to do with something funny President Chavez said today with regards to saving water) "Wait, is that really a taxi?!" (They put stickers that said "taxi" on the windshield of these awful, old, cars and I'm supposed to get in? NO WAY!) "Are classes going to be cancelled again because of the protests?" "IS THIS NORMAL?!" etc

The answers to my questions have been both surprising and at times unbelievable. I hope to post more frequently now that I have things under control because my life here has been anything but boring. I want the people reading this blog to get a better understanding of Venezuelan life, that it's not all like what is shown on the news in the US! I have had some breathtaking moments already here, and am sure that they aren't over yet!

For now, I leave you with some recent pictures. Next time I'll update more on some specific activities I've been involved in. :)

Me, my friend Goldsmitd and my apartment mate, Idalmis in El Hatillo, a little town on the outskirts of Caracas. We were in a chocolate store-yum!

Terry the puppy!! He's a teacup poodle mix and weighs less than 2 pounds, and probably won't weigh more than 4 fully grown. He's a pistol....

Andrea, the president of Rotaract Avila (in formation) and I the day we visited a center for kids with special needs in Catia de la Mar (updates on this soon).

Free outdoor concert sponsored by the government, we saw Calle 13, a Puerto Rican group. Awesome energy! Orlando, Susan, me and another new friend, Jesus (I met him while at the workshop at the Peace Monument).

Arepa success!! I finally started using the "tostiarepas" (like a waffle maker for arepas) and my arepas are turning out wonderfully. Thanks for the lessons, Idalmis!

No hay agua?! Again?!

2009-10-05T20:08:00.002-04:30

I am entertained by the fact that today, once again, our water has been cut off. I'd LOVE to know what they're doing to the plumbing outside so that water doesn't make it to the building. Sometimes you just have to laugh.... My roommate's friend said that he's lived in Caracas his whole life and never once been without water. My roommate says that it's happened maybe once here (before I came) in the four years she's lived here. Since I've come, it's gone out on two separate occasions, the first time for a couple of days, starting the night that I got here. Figures... some higher power wants to make sure I have enough material to write that book about my life, "No hay agua"!

By the way, make sure you turn off that faucet when you're brushing your teeth and try to make good, conservative use of water! You never know when you won't have it.

Cheers!

Finding Inner Peace

2009-09-28T20:40:00.007-04:30

This post is dedicated to KF, KD, SF and CA, in hopes that they'll find inner peace soon, too.

I felt compelled to write this post not only because of a recent event I attended at Caracas' Peace Monument last Saturday, but also because of a conversation I had later that day with fellow Rotarians and not-so-peaceful moments in the lives of some of those around me.

In the last few days, I have been tired, cranky and frustrated at times. This was not the overall feeling of the days, but the tired/cranky/frustrated times seemed to overpower the other feelings. I was overwhelmed by the early starting times (7AM) of my classes, the amount of material, the expectations of me. Stress took over and I began to wonder if I was going to be successful this year.

Yesterday and today I had a little bit more down time and had time to reflect on the events of the last few weeks. As I mentioned, last Saturday I took a tour at the Peace Monument (Monumento a la Paz) in Colinas de Bello Monte (a part of Caracas). The monument was started by Dr. Farid Mattar in 1963 using rubble from the city of Caracas. Over the years, the monument has expanded considerably, and each part of the monument has a different meaning. However, each rock is placed “in the name of every Venezuelan child that will be born.”

It truly is a "peaceful" place with lush gardens and a spectacular view of El Avila (the mountain to the north of Caracas). Please take a look at the International Free Planet Foundation website for the full story and some beautiful pictures.

View from the entrance

One of the first gardens

The first path

Do you see a face or a tree?

It felt like walking through a jungle!

El Avila

Even the contemplative have to relieve themselves somewhere!

A lower level

Reflecting while sitting at a table made from rubble.

Rotaract President Andrea and I helping each other balance and "creating a peaceful bond."

El Avila

After the tour of the premises, there was a round table discussion about peace and how we can go about promoting peace in our lives. Several participants discussed different local programs designed to reduce conflict and tensions in areas of Caracas and the world. October 2 marks the start of The World March for Peace and Nonviolence, a worldwide movement for peace that will last until January 2, 2010. There will be events and marches in a wide array of countries, because

"The moment has come for the voiceless to be heard! Out of agonizing and urgent need, millions of human beings are crying out for an end to wars and violence. We can make that happen by uniting all the forces of pacifism and active non-violence worldwide." (http://theworldmarch.org)

After the discussion, I went to Rotary Club Las Mercedes President Pedro's home, along with his wife Gina, and niece Andrea (President of Rotaract), all three of whom had attended the event. We had a scrumptious lunch and settled into the living room for an after-lunch chat with their daughter. I got more out of this conversation than I ever thought that I would.

At Pedro's home.

We began by talking about what had happened that morning, our opinions of the monument the round table discussion. I had thoroughly enjoyed the visit, especially since I hadn't expected such a magnificant structure, nor the round table at the end. Pedro then brought up the topic of inner peace, something that was briefly touched at the meeting. "How do we find inner peace? How do we make peace reign in our homes?"

I started to think about my own life, about my own inner peace. How many times did I fight with my brother, or argue with my parents? How many times should I have turned the other cheek in a situation, and didn't? Why is it that it is so easy for us to hurt the ones around us, yet so difficult to tell them that we love them? Why do we judge others without getting to know them first, using superficial characteristics as guidelines for judging their worth rather than the person that they are?

The conversation turned to my own family and disputes that have happened within it that have torn some of us apart. I got emotional thinking about relationships that I wish were better, that sometimes it seems will never improve. Gina mused that one of the most difficult tasks to carry out in the home is achieving peace. They encouraged me to not give up, to keep trying, and I was reminded of some steps forward in the last couple of years.

Since I have been home for very short periods of time since about 2003, it's always difficult to keep in touch with everyone, much less work on bettering relationships while abroad. However, I feel like things have improved lately, which I know has helped with my own inner peace. This summer one of my sisters moved closer to my house as a positive result of a negative situation. I was ecstatic that she moved closer and that I could see her and her two of her children (my niece and nephew) more often. They're getting to an age that you can really see what type of people they are turning out to be and I really don't want to miss out on that. I've had the chance to get to know them better and I think it would be awesome if my nephew could come to visit me here, or maybe on my next trip. I also had more time to spend with my brother, sister-in-law and his children, and feel like things get better every time I come home. I had the opportunity to spend a day each with both my sister and my brother's daughters, a "girl's day out" and hope that we continue to do so when I come home. Even though my parents were working and away from home for a good portion of summer, we still were able to spend time together. Because I'm gone so much, we try to make the most of the time that I'm there.

But what about those relationships that I haven't been able to improve? What do I do about them? Like Gina said, don't give up on them. World peace starts with our own inner peace and creating a peaceful atmosphere in our homes, strengthening our families.

Before I left for Venezuela, my dad asked me if I would come home for Christmas. I have never come home during a year abroad in the past (this is my fourth year abroad, and I've only been home for 2 Christmases since 2003) because of the cost of the plane ticket and wanting to experience the holidays in a new place. Even if I was in Ohio, I took advantage of the time off at Christmas to travel. I am young and independent, and realize that I won't be able to take off and travel at the drop of a hat once I "grow up." My parents have always supported me in this and they encourage me to keep learning and bettering myself.

However there comes a point when you realize that the cost of the plane ticket shouldn't be a concern. Getting to spend the holidays with your family when you spend so much time away from home doesn't have a price. I can't feel completely at peace knowing that it would bring my parents and my family happiness (and me, of course!) for me to spend Christmas with them, and having the possibility to go home and not go. Maybe this is what I need to do to better those tough relationships that I haven't gotten to yet. We all need to take a good look at ourselves once in awhile and ask these kinds of hard questions.

Some of my friends are going through a rough time right now. We're all growing up and the growing pains can sometimes be unbearable. It seems like inner peace is hard to come by these days. Moving back home is just what the doctor ordered for some, fastidious for others. Some feel that the path that they chose isn't the right one because the going got tough really quickly, while others still can't find their path. I wish I could be there to give each and every person who's having a tough time dealing a hug. I wish I could tell them that it's going to be alright, and know that they believe it. I've been where they are, not knowing where life is going to take me, and it can be miserable if you think about it the wrong way. I still find myself in that situation sometimes! If you think of it as a curse that you don't know what life is bringing, what you're going to eat for breakfast the next day, it most certainly will feel that way.

To my friends and anyone else feeling a little bit lost and lacking for inner peace, know that once you are at peace with yourself, everything else will fall into place and the effect on everyone and everything around you will be noticeable. Tomorrow, October 2nd, starts the three month World March for Peace and Nonviolence. I invite each one of you to do your part by finding your own inner peace and making peace with those around you. You never know what kinds of amazing things may come of it.

How to Make an Arepa

2009-09-25T19:59:00.005-04:30

Step 1: Buy some flour mix that contains corn, oats and corn bran, or just look for a package of flour with a big arepa on it!

Step 2: Add water and let it be absorbed into the flour. If it is still dry, add a little more water, but be sure to give the water enough time to absorb completely.

Step 3: Knead the mixture until it forms a malleable dough.

Admire your wonderful dough ball!

Step 4: Form the dough into small discs if you're using an arepa maker. The arepa maker is the double-sided pan shown that can be used to easily flip the arepas while on the stove and cooks them thoroughly. You can also make larger ones using a frying pan.

Step 5: Voila- your arepa is ready to be sliced in half, bagel-style, and filled with whatever delicious treats you'd like to put in there! If you've got a sweet tooth, maybe jam. If you're hungry for a good meal, try filling it with a local favorite- avocado and chicken salad, or ham and cheese. For a picture of a filled arepa, refer back to the first September post.

Rotary- The best business in the world

2009-09-23T12:05:00.013-04:30

In the last two weeks that I have been in Venezuela, I have come to realize what a difference being a Rotarian ambassador makes in the experience of studying abroad. A few nights ago, my new apartment-mate Idalmis asked me what benefits and advantages one enjoys upon joining Rotary International. Why become a Rotarian? I was able to thoroughly answer her questions as a direct result of a speech given last week by the Rotary District 4370 District Governor, Pedro Pablo Puky to Rotary Club Petare and other experiences I have had with Rotary so far.

On Tuesday, September 15, I attended a Rotary Club Petare meeting with Dr. Aracelis Ortega, my temporary host counselor. I was nervous because it would be the first time that I would meet most of these Rotarians. So far I had only met Nelly Meléndez from Rotary Club Las Mercedes, and Aracelis. I shouldn't have been worried, because from the first moment I walked into the room, I was welcomed by the Rotarians, who had been looking forward to meeting me just as much as I was excited to meet them. DG Pedro Pablo Puky and I had emailed back and forth and he greeted me as he would an old friend, which made me feel at ease with him immediately. We had found common ground in our Hungarian ancestry a few months back. I found that Rotarians here love taking photographs as much as I do and had no problem getting everyone together for a group shot before the events began.

Some members of Rotary Club Petare.
The first on the left is Petare's assistant to the District Governor, Dr. Jaime Bolaños. The District Governor, Pedro Pablo Puky (not a member of RC Petare), is seated to my right and wearing a yellow tie. Dr. Aracelis Ortega is second from the left, next to Dr. Jaime Bolaños.

I was asked to hold the Venezuelan flag out while the Club sang the national anthem.

Before I continue, I want to stress that this meeting was significant for Rotary Club Petare because the District Governor is required to visit each local club one time during his year as DG and this was his first visit to the club.

The meeting started with reports to the DG Pedro Pablo Puky about the status of the club. I was particularly interested in learning about the service projects that the club is carrying out. One of their projects involves paying tuition for children in children's homes to attend private schools each month. The members of the club also visit the children and assist the centers in maintaining the building. The member commenting on this project stated the need to improve many of the facilities, including the bathrooms.

Another project was directed towards those who have poor vision and require glasses, but perhaps cannot afford them. Rotary Club Petare's goal is to help 1,000 locals get the glasses they need, whether it is by subsidizing the glasses or giving them to the needy outright.

The third project that was discussed was "Operación Kilo," a food drive for the needy. Throughout the month, donated food is gathered and stored at the Club president's house and once a month, members of the Club deliver the food to children living in the streets and other homeless persons.

In January, a chapter of Rotaract was formed in Caracas. Rotaract is a Rotary Club for young men and women aged 18-30 who want to make a difference through volunteer service. The club is still "in formation," as they have not yet reached the minimum number of members necessary to officially become a Rotaract club. I met Rodrigo and Yohana, current members of Rotaract. Although the club is still in formation, the members are involved in different service projects already, from a lottery to benefit children with cancer to assisting Rotary scholars who came from Mexico to Caracas to learn about Social Responsibilities for Businesses.

After giving a few suggestions and commenting on the projects that were presented, District Governor Pedro Pablo Puky began his speech that would provide the answer to my apartment-mate's questions. According to Pedro Pablo, everyone is concerned with helping his fellow man/woman. But why don't we just give money to beggars, why should we get together as a group rather than making individual contributions? His answer was that if each one of us helps out separately with a part, we still might not be able to achieve the goal. However, if we combine our efforts, strengths and abilities, we can multiply those individual parts and make the sum of the group's efforts much greater than the sum of the individuals' efforts. After all, one person can help a child, but a group can build an orphanage.

Combining efforts to carry out service projects is an important part of Rotary, but it is not the only reason to be a part of Rotary International. There are people that we see every day at work or at the store, but real friendship is hard to come by. Rotary offers the opportunity to meet people we may not have otherwise. In my case, I would never have met the majority of the people that I have met so far in Caracas. Most of them are Rotary contacts. The weekly meetings serve as a way to stay united and develop strong friendships. Rather than being a member of a homogenized group of persons in a service group (such as one formed through a workplace, etc), the contacts and friendships made through Rotary are diverse. In one night I met a surgeon, a lawyer, a pharmaceutical teacher, a chemical engineer and an architect! This diversity allows Rotary members to combine their skills and enrich each other, as well as be a more effective service group.

Pedro Pablo discussing Rotary International's theme for this year: "The Future of Rotary is in Our Hands"

Another unexpected advantage of Rotary is the improvement of public speaking skills. Even back in Ohio as a future Ambassadorial Scholar, I was put to the test and asked to give a speech before I left to my sponsor club, Rotary Club of Cleveland. During the meetings, at which there are usually at least 20-25 Rotary members present (sidenote: any Rotary member from any part of the world can attend any other Rotary Club meeting as a guest), one must lose his/her fear of speaking in front of a group to ask even the simplest question. Pedro Pablo told us about a very shy woman who became a member of his local Rotary Club who made an incredible transformation and now is one of the chattiest members. Through Rotary, one has the opportunity to better both him/herself as well as better the world around him/her.

Pedro Pablo ended by commenting that Rotary International is the best business in the world- the demand (for service/volunteerism) always exceeds the supply. That said, there's a lot of work to be done in the world to make it a better place for all. Consider visiting your local Rotary Club to see what Rotary International is all about- Rotarians love visitors and will make you feel welcome from the start!

A member of Rotary Club Petare, District Governor Pedro Pablo Puky and me after the meeting. Right before this picture was taken, I gave Pedro Pablo an Arch C. Klump medallion as a gift from the Rotary Club of Cleveland. He sends his thanks to the Rotary Club of Cleveland!

My new place- what do you mean, there's no water?!

2009-09-20T23:31:00.008-04:30

Just a quick post to "show" you all a little bit of my new apartment. I don't have many pictures of the inside yet, but here is one of the outside. I found it on Google Maps too, so if you want to "see" it, write to me and I'll give you the link!

The fruits of my first trip to the grocery. It only took an hour to get there (it's about 5 minutes away, but I went the wrong direction)!

The lovely news that we would only have water from 12:30-2:00PM and 7:30-9:00PM, until further notice. Apparently some water pipes broke. Hahaha, my future book will definitely be called "No Hay Agua"...

Small Victories

2009-09-19T14:57:00.002-04:30

This entry was mostly written on Wednesday, September 16.

Being in Caracas reminds me of when I was in Ecuador for many reasons. I learned life lessons in Riobamba that have served me well over the last 5 years since I came home from my year abroad. It was a difficult year that taught me more about myself than anything else. There would be several days in a row when we simply did not have running water (if I wrote an autobiography about my life up until now, it would be called "no hay agua"-there's no water- for this reason), when the catcalls really got on my nerves, the two months before Carnaval when I got attacked with water balloons, flour or water pistols every time I set foot out of my house (apparently it was more fun to attack the "gringas") and other times when things just didn't go my way. I learned patience, street smarts, how to appreciate the small victories, and how to replace bad memories.

In Caracas there is usually water in the shower, although it's not always hot, and I haven't gotten pelted with flour or water pistols yet (however I have been rained on). But I have already experienced times where things just didn't seem to go my way. The days seem so long because so much happens over the course of the time I'm awake. Actually, even when I'm asleep it's eventful. Someone had the brilliant idea to set the hotel room TV timer to 4:05AM and that was waking me up every morning. The bad part of it was that I would roll over, fumble around until I found the remote to turn it off, and by the time I woke up I wouldn't remember exactly what had happened. I originally thought that I was waking up with the sun or something. Then one morning I awoke to some sitcom and within a few minutes became very sick to my stomach. Needless to say, I remembered what happened a few hours later when I woke up and turned off the timer, especially since the Pepto Bismal tablets that I had taken at 4AM had turned my tongue black (thanks to Khoa for forewarning me about that one). Last night I went to sleep with a satisfied grin on my face, knowing that no sitcom would be trying to make me laugh at 4:05AM. What I didn't count on were my new neighbors. I suppose I should be grateful- they did let me sleep until 6:15, at which point they decided to start their day with energy.... right outside my door. sigh...

Annoyances like this are a part of life. At times it can seem like the annoyances outnumber the satisfying moments. Either way, the small victories must be celebrated. What are small victories? They can be anything. My first small victory after I was dropped off at the hotel was walking by myself to McDonald's (there's really nothing else around here that I can walk to after dark) and getting dinner. Another time it was scrounging up the courage to start making phone calls about apartments. It's nerve-racking to make phone calls in another country to people that you don't know, in a language that's not your own, about something that's handled completely differently than in your native country.

Today's victory was school-related. I had forgotten that I needed to take a Spanish-language test as a prerequisite for entry into the graduate program. Once I found out that I needed to take it ASAP, I called the Modern Languages office and got directions. I walked from the hotel to campus, a route that I finally knew well, and started my search. I had been told that the office was in front of the Pharmacy College building. Well, now if only I knew where the Pharmacy building was! I wandered in the direction of the building where my classes would be held, wandered in another direction, and finally decided to ask for directions. I was pointed in the direction of a “building with a red wall” and some others that I didn’t know. I wandered more, asked more people for help and finally (after doing a few laps around the campus) arrived at my destination. I always look at the posted signs in hopes of finding something interesting and this time was in luck- I found out that Arabic classes are available and who to call. (update: On Friday I was in the building where they’ll be held, in another area off-campus called Altamira, but didn’t have time to find out anything more. I’ll have to call Monday)

After speaking with the secretary and receiving a slip of paper with an account number on it that I was supposed to use when I deposited 75BsF (about $12.50) as payment for the test, I received further instructions on finding the Banco de Venezuela. Apparently there are two branches on campus and the one that I found first (and of course it was the one that was the furthest away from the language office) was closed with chains and a big padlock. It took me at least another 30 minutes of walking and asking and feeling like I was running in circles to find the other branch. Another half hour of waiting in line and I finally got to pay for my test. I paid especially close attention to how people were paying and what they had to do to fill out the form, etc. but luckily I didn’t have too much of a problem because they used a similar system in Spain. However here, you have to “sign” with a thumbprint as well. I’ve never had to put my prints on so many documents in my life! Luckily they didn’t ask for any other ID because I had forgotten my passport. I guess if you want to deposit money for someone else, that’s your own prerogative.

Feeling satisfied, I returned to the hotel and called the language office again to confirm that I had paid the deposit and to ask when the test was. The secretary wasn’t sure I would be taking the test at the same time as everyone else because mine was in Spanish and theirs in English. I got another set of phone numbers to call to ask a professor if I would be taking the test on Friday. His son answered the first number and the professor himself answered the second and said that it was not a problem.

Since Wednesday when I wrote this entry, a lot has happened, many small victories as well as difficulties. I will update again soon and tell a little more about my first Rotary meeting, moving into a new place, finding out that the “no hay agua” does apply here in Venezuela after all, and my disdain for catcalls in the streets, barking dogs and blaring music. Stay tuned for the insanity….

Tormentas

2009-09-14T21:43:00.003-04:30

The past couple of days have been stormy here, and I've had a fantastic view of the storms from my 7th floor hotel room. It's amazing how you can see the rain blur the mountains and buildings in the distance until they turn into a gray soup. Tonight I saw a lot of lightning; one of the bolts touched down on a hill just outside the city and the whole town went dark. Luckily, the lights went back on one by one. Here are a few pictures of the storm.

Before the storm

The storm coming in

The grey soupiness that "erased" the city

In other news, I got my phone fixed, which has facilitated the apartment search. Tomorrow I have a couple of appointments to see rooms and Nelly has agreed to come and help me decide. It eases my mind to have a Venezuelan (especially such a nice one!) come with me, so that I won't run into any problems.

This afternoon when I was out getting my phone fixed, I noticed the number of stores/malls here. In the town I lived in in Spain, there were many real estate offices, bar/cafeterias, several grocery stores and a few dollar stores. Here, I've noticed many, many malls and more fast food places than bars/cafeterias. These malls aren't the kind that I'm used to in the US, either, long and flat, usually not more than 2 or 3 floors. The mall, El Recreo, was 6 or 8 floors, a massive building with a mix of American and Spanish stores. I was elated to discover a hot soft pretzel stand, though, as pretzels don't seem to be as popular in countries outside of the US (except Germany, of course). Cell phone stores abounded and I wasn't surprised to hear that many Venezuelans have 2 cell phones, in order to call between the same networks (as in call from a Movistar line to Movistar users and use the other phone for other companies). I was, however, surprised to hear that many have as many as 3 or 4, for this same reason!

My impression of Caracas so far is that it's a small-town big city. It has a lot of big-city characteristics like size, population, variety, noise, but a small-town feel in that the people are very welcoming, and I wouldn't be surprised in a few months to run into someone I know in the streets in an area I don't usually frequent. When I went to the UCV to meet my professors today, I was greeted warmly and personally guided through the process. Not only did Profa. Yonis and Prof. Garaicoechea sit down with me and explain the registration procedures, they also gave me their personal cell phone numbers and said that if I had any problems, to feel free to call them.

In short, my experiences so far have exceeded my expectations.

Earthquake!!

2009-09-12T19:10:00.001-04:30

The View from Susan's House

Today while I was at my fellow Rotary Ambassadorial Scholar friend Susan's house, we experienced a earthquake of 6.2 on the Richter scale. The weather was already quite strange and I took several videos of the clouds coming through the mountains because it reminded me of visiting a clouded forest in Mindo, Ecuador. Soon after it started pouring down rain, we were sitting in her living room/kitchen area enjoying some delicious plantain slices topped with guacamole and cheese, and everything started to shake. We sat there in shock for what seemed like an eternity and it seemed as if the floor were rippling. Everyone got up and went outside because we were safer there than in the house (just in case of anything falling on us). After a few minutes, we returned to our meal and felt a few more, much weaker, vibrations. Fortunately, there didn't seem to be much damage as a result of the strong thunderstorms and the earthquake.

In other, much more pleasant news, I had the opportunity to meet Nelly Melendez, the current secretary and 2010-2011 President-Elect from the Rotary Club Las Mercedes. Ms. Melendez is a high school teacher here in Caracas. Nelly offered to help me out with opening a bank account and choosing a room. I also met a friend of hers, Esther, a doctor at a public health clinic. She told us about her job and the problems she encounters on a daily basis. Esther commented that she has faced the same problems since she began- too many patients and too little time, as well as corruption.

Esther, Karen, Nelly, Susan at Susan's house in Hoyo de la Puerta

I met Susan's "babies" (she has cats that hang out outside her house and one just gave birth a week ago) and enjoyed the view from her terrace. We looked at some photos from her and Orlando's wedding last year and ate a delicious dessert of banana bread (made from local bananas) and tea/coffee.

Susan with one of her "babies"

Orlando, Nelly, Esther, and Susan on the terrace

After the excitement of today, I can't wait to see what else this year is going to bring!

Y así empieza...

2009-09-11T19:40:00.000-04:30

My name is Karen Varga and I am a Rotary Foundation Ambassadorial Scholar from Rotary District 6630 representing the Rotary Club of Cleveland, Ohio. I will study International Relations at the Universidad Central de Venezuela in Caracas during the 2009-2010 school year.

Today was my second day in Caracas, Venezuela. It's difficult for me to find the words to describe my adventure so far, but I'll try my best.

I arrived into the Simón Bolívar International Maiquetia yesterday, after about 12 hours of overnight travel. By the time I got to the Caracas airport, I was tired (although not nearly as exhausted as I anticipated being), hungry and getting a little nervous, especially going through Immigration. I was sure I filled something out wrong or that I was going to face some kind of anti-American sentiment. One of the reasons that I wanted to come to Venezuela was to find out what the general Venezuelan opinion of the USA is, and to see how they view Americans. Much to my relief, I had no problems in Immigration or Customs. I was both surprised and glad to see an airport security guard checking the baggage stickers we were given against the tags affixed to our suitcases. There were also a few security guards at various points around the luggage carousel. I felt fairly safe.

Probably the most interesting part of the airport was waiting for my bags at the luggage carousel. There was an employee whose only job seemed to be to catch the bags as they came down the first conveyor belt and flip them so that the name stickers were up and they would travel down the conveyor belts without falling out or hitting people.

My friend Elio's parents, Elio Miguel and Mirna were waiting for me outside the gate and it was very reassuring to see the sign with my name on it, with two smiling people behind it. My first thought when I got outside was "If the weather is always like this in Caracas, I'm going to be miserable!" However, they explained to me that since Caracas was about 16 miles away, and at a higher altitude of 2,500-3,000 feet, it didn't get that hot. In fact, some Venezuelans consider Caracas to be chilly (Caracas' average temperature stays in the 70s and 80s) in comparison to other tropical areas that are at sea level. In the two days I've been here, I've found the temperature both days to be quite pleasant all day.

The car ride to the city was enlightening. I saw various forms of pro-government propaganda, as well as some anti-government graffiti. I was thoroughly entertained watching the flow of traffic and the absolute insanity that ensues on the roads leading into and within Caracas. I hope to never have to drive on those streets, however, because I think one must have been brought up here to understand the complicated manuevers that one must make to get to his or her destination. I looked on as the cars parted to let an ambulance get through and was surprised to see a group of well-organized motorcyclists following close behind, taking advantage of the open space behind the ambulance before the cars closed the gap once again. It almost seemed rehearsed. Elio Miguel drove calmly, as if we were on a Sunday afternoon drive, and Mirna chatted with the both of us. They immediately made me feel welcome. Elio Miguel commented that I am arriving into Venezuela at a "crucial moment," because changes are happening quickly, both on a national and international level, and I will experience them firsthand. I am excited to speak with people who have already passed through many of these changes and hear about their personal experiences.

Before we got into the city, we passed through the outskirts of Caracas, best known for their favelas, shantytowns or "barrios." They are poor areas where persons of few resources may live. I have heard that the actual living quarters are poorly built and was astonished by the number of houses and shanties built one on top of each other on the side of the mountain. I hope to speak with more people about these areas to understand them better.

After a few wrong turns and a subsequent scenic tour of Caracas, we arrived at the hotel and I got settled in. Next was a typical Venezuelan breakfast- arepas (a type of fried cornmeal bread shaped like a pita) filled with a variety of foods, from chicken and avocado to cheese to sweet fillings, black beans, fried and scrambled eggs, pulled pork, washed down with amazing fruit juices. I had a ham and cheese arepa with passion fruit juice and enjoyed every bite (see photo above). We ran into a cousin of Elio's, who is also studying at the Universidad Central de Venezuela. He offered to help me get settled into Caracas.

After breakfast we visited a few banks to see if I could open a bank account. Unfortunately (and much to the surprise of Elio Miguel and Mirna), a new requirement has been made that one must be a resident to open a bank account. In another bank, we were told that I also needed to have proof that I had been paying my utility bills in order to prove that I was financially stable. The bank tellers were sympathetic and did all that they could to help me, but said that the changes were on the government level and they had to respect them. I consider this my first taste of the immediate impact that the government's changes are having here. I am not for or against these types of changes, but hope to learn more this year about their positive and negative causes and effects.

That afternoon I was able to meet up with Susan, another Rotary Ambassadorial Scholar living here in Caracas. Rotary International forwarded me her contact information soon after I was assigned to come to Caracas. She has been here since early this year and has been my best source of information, as well as becoming a good friend. She and her husband, Orlando, took me in their 1960s VW Beetle to the local mall to see if I could get a cell phone. I was immediately overwhelmed when we first drove into the parking garage- it was packed and it seemed that there were just as many cars driving around, looking for parking spots. When we got in, I was overwhelmed once again. The mall was 6 or 8 stories high, with a kids blow-up playground in the middle on the ground floor, and every store you could imagine. We only saw parts of 2 floors and I was amazed at the number of people and variety of stores. I saw many familiar fast food places, a few stores that I saw in Spain and other American brands. The cell phone search was quick and I just needed to wait a few hours for my phone to be activated.

The three of us headed out to Altamira to an Italian restaurant and I felt renewed after our terrace dinner. I had been up since 5:15 that morning, so sitting down and having a pleasant dinner with great company was a relief. I finally had the opportunity to ask Susan and Orlando about their experiences in person.

Today I slept in after finding out that I wouldn't meet up with Elio's cousin, Cesar, until this afternoon. I moved to a smaller, cheaper room in the hotel (it's still quite nice) and can finally settle in for the next few days, knowing that I won't have to change rooms again. Cesar came by and took me through the Universidad Central de Venezuela's campus and showed me where my college is located. I felt at home on the campus, especially when Cesar saw some fellow students and we had a lively discussion about world affairs (Cesar is in the undergradate International Studies program, while I will study International Relations on the graduate level). I can't wait to register for classes next week and start going to class the week after. However, I'm not looking forward to the 7AM start time!

We headed to the mall again to find out why my phone won't allow me to call yet and get something to eat. They told me that the systems are down and that my line should be activated by tomorrow night. So no apartment-search calls quite yet.

So far, so good. I'm looking forward to seeing and experiencing everything Caracas has to offer, and meeting my host Rotarians next week.